If you ask any of us here at The Vape Room what we enjoy most about vaping, you’ll likely get a mixed response. There are those of us that love to mix our own e-liquid, those that can’t help but buy every new mod on the market (you know who you are…) and even a few of us obsessed with finding that ever allusive ‘perfect’ flavour of e-liquid. But one thing we all agree on; experimenting with coil building is something each and every one of us is hooked on.
Personally, my vaping journey started with a simple set up; the original Innokin MVP 2.0 and the iClear 16 clearomiser. A basic, yet perfect setup for me at the time. Vaping with pre-made or ‘stock’ coil heads, which simply screw into your atomiser, was the standard back in the early days of vaping and the iClear 16 is no different.
However, vaping has evolved considerably since then with the introduction of Rebuildable Tank Atomisers (RTA), Rebuildable Atomisers (RBA) and Rebuildable Dripper Atomisers (RDA).
Now I’m not knocking those early atomisers! In fact, I still use the iClear 16 and highly recommend them as a great starting point for new vapers. BUT… if you’re looking to get the absolute most out of your vaping in terms of flavour and vapour production (not to mention having loads of fun in the process!) strap yourself in and get ready for an introduction to coil building!
BUT LOOK, LET’S START WITH THE COIL BUILDING BASICS… WHAT EXACTLY IS A VAPING COIL AND WHAT DOES IT DO?
Basically, a vaping coil is a spiral shaped heating element made from a length of resistance wire. The resistance of the wire is measured in ‘ohms’ and the thickness of that wire is referred to as AWG (American Wire Gauge). The combination of these two determines the power that can be safely delivered through your coil.
The coil is wrapped around a wick which is saturated in e-liquid. When you fire your mod and heat the coil, the e-liquid is vaporised and this vapour is what we inhale. The coil is either situated at the top or the bottom of the atomiser. While variations in coil design may change the vapour and flavour output, vaping coils essentially all work the same way.
SO WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS OF COIL BUILDING VERSUS PRE-BUILT OR‘STOCK’ COILS?
The first benefit you’ll notice when experimenting with different wire gauges, coil types and coil wraps (more on this later) is the overwhelming difference in flavour and vapour production. Not only that, but the benefit of CHOICE to build a coil to suit your personal vaping preference or style. If you prefer a cloud of warm dense vapour, you got it! If you crave a cooler vape with a focus on flavour rather than clouds, no problem! We’ll take a proper look at the many, many different coil building techniques and coil types a bit later. Rest assured, with so many options you’re sure to find a build that suits you perfectly.
It’s also worth noting, coil building is also FAR cheaper than buying pre-built or ‘stock’ coils. And every penny helps right!?
OK, SO NOW WE’VE COVERED THE BASICS, WHAT WIRE SHOULD I USE FOR MY FIRST COIL BUILD?
Before we look at the specific wire types most commonly used in coil building, we need to have a talk about:
THE SIZE OF THE WIRE
We’re not talking length here, but diameter or how ‘thick’ the wire is. This is measured as a number and referred to as AWG (American Wire Gauge). It’s important to remember that the lower the AWG value, the larger the diameter of the wire. For example, a 28 AWG is thicker than 30 AWG wire.
And size is important (sorry fellas…)
Without getting too technical; the larger the wire,the lower the resistance which means a larger amount of power is required to heat it.
(Quick tip: Generally speaking, lower resistance coils improve vapour production)
Now we’ve got the technical bit out the way, let’s have a look at a couple of different wire types:
KANTHAL
The original and most popular ‘go to’ wire type. Kanthal is easy to manipulate and holds shape well, making it an ideal choice for those of you new to coil building. Most of the team here started building with Kanthal and it’s something we all continue to use to this day. It’s inexpensive and available at any decent vaping store. However, please note Kanthal can only be used in the standard variable wattage function.
NICHROME
NiChrome is similar to Kanthal in that it should only be used in variable wattage mode. However, that’s where the similarities end. NiChrome has a lower resistance than Kanthal, which means your coil will heat up much faster. In fact, you’re likely to improve vapour production even if your coil build is identical. BUT, you do need to be aware that NiChrome is not quite as easy to build with as Kanthal. Primarily due to the fact it doesn’t hold its shape as efficiently. The fact it heats faster than Kanthal also means you’re more likely to burn your wick and suffer a dry hit.
Now that we’ve covered the most common wire types available for variable wattage, we need to talk about;
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
In recent years, this feature has become increasingly popular, with many of the newer mods now offering this as standard. Although a basic definition, this is essentially a facility that monitors resistance as your coil is heated. When the resistance changes, the temperature control feature will adjust the power/wattage being applied to your coil. This adjustment prevents dry hits, prevents coil damage and guarantees optimal performance. However, only certain types of wire can be used in a temperature controlled mod.
So back to the wire types:
NICKEL (NI200)
Ni200 is made of pure Nickel and has an extremely high temperature coefficient. This is precisely the reason why the guys at Evolv (famous for their DNA mod chips) decided to use Ni200 wire for the first Temperature Control mod. Nickel wire is very soft and springy, making it more difficult to work with when compared to Kanthal or Titanium. When wrapping Nickel, it’s a good idea to space the wraps apart so the heat is evenly distributed throughout the length of the wire. If there are any wraps in the coil that are touching each other, you’ve created a potential hotspot that can cause the coil to short. Because of this, many people have started twisting the wire before they make their coil. This allows for equal heat distribution (if done correctly) with tight wraps; however, it can be time consuming. For this reason some people consider Ni200 to be problematic, whereas other people swear by it to be the best metal for Temperature Control devices.
STAINLESS STEEL
This wire type is fast becoming the superman of the vaping world. The list of benefits to using this wire for coil building are seemingly endless. It’s extremely fast heating, delivers fantastic consistent flavour and is very easy to manipulate. It can also be used with both variable wattage and temperature control. But just a word of warning; Stainless Steel wire has a very low resistance. If you’re using variable wattage mode, you must make sure the device you’re using can handle it.
TITANIUM
Titanium wire is still relatively new on the market and is used in many sub-ohm tank coil heads for Temperature Control. It is considerably stronger than Ni200, making it much easier to work with. The resistance of Titanium is about double that of Ni200, allowing you to use considerably less wraps compared to Nickel when reaching your target resistance. A concern worth noting for Titanium is the fact that it can heat up to a point of ignition. If the metal combusts, you will see a flame that no fire extinguisher can put out; in which case you just have to let it burn out. Also worth noting is the formation of Titanium Dioxide which can be harmful to your health if inhaled. The good news is that Titanium Dioxide only forms in temperatures around 1,200°F (600°C). This may seem like a lot, just remember that a brightly glowing orange coil can easily exceed temperatures up to 1,300°F. A simple solution is to not glow your coils and you’ll never have to worry about combustion or Titanium Dioxide. If you see any kind of white powder forming around your coil, please be sure to dispose of the wire and wrap a new coil. Titanium Dioxide is no joke and can produce some serious side-effects if ingested for an extended period of time. If you are unsure or have any doubt about your coil, simply throw it away and start a new.
IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I SHOULD KNOW?
Yes. Before you delve too deep into coil building, it’s worth taking a minute to understand the basics of Ohm’s law and how it applies to your vaping coil.
The three main components to understand are:
RESISTANCE
This is the rate at which your coil will oppose the passage of electrical current. The lower the resistance, the faster the current will be.
VOLTAGE
Measured in volts (bet you didn’t see that coming…), this is the difference in electrical potential between two points. Positive and negative on your battery for instance. Increase the voltage between those two points and you gain a higher energy output without using any extra power/charge.
CURRENT
Measured in amps, this is the rate at which electrons or ‘power’ will flow through your coil.
Mathematically, Ohm’s law states that V=I/R, where V is the voltage difference, I is the current in amps and R is the resistance in ohms.
NOW I KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING. WHY DO I NEED TO KNOW THIS AND HOW DOES THIS RELATE TO COIL BUILDING?
Well, put simply, it all boils down to battery safety. The resistance of your coil determines the amount of current you draw from the battery. If the resistance is too low, you’re in danger of drawing more current than your battery is safely able to deliver. This could have disastrous effects; at worst you may vent the battery and it could catch fire or explode. This is why it’s so important to test your coil to determine the resistance/ohm’s and identify any problems prior to using it.
This is never more important than when using a mechanical mod, due to the lack of any safety circuitry. The resistance of the coil determines what power you’ll be vaping at and how much current will be drawn from the battery. Most regulated mods have a ‘fail safe’ feature built into them which will prevent the mod from firing if a ‘short’ is detected. Please see our guide to battery safety for more information.
OK, SO HOW DO I ACTUALLY BUILD MY COIL?
We’ll cover that in just a second. Before we do, I think it’s important we take a brief look at a few of the more common coil designs. Specifically, the terminology involved.
VERTICAL COILS
The norm for stock coils, this is basically a standing coil situated in the centre of your build deck reaching toward the top of your atomiser. The vertical coil can be wicked on either the inside or outside, which is more commonly known as a ‘chimney’ coil. These coils have gained popularity, due to the improved airflow and flavour as more of the coil surface area is in contact with the wick.
HORIZONTAL COILS
As the name suggests, this is simply a coil placed flat on your build deck, running between the deck posts. Some people now consider this ‘old hat’ as the popularity of vertical coils has increased. However, this method was the standard back in the early days of DIY coil building and is a design we still use to this day. Personally I prefer this method as I notice less spitback from these when compared with horizontal coils.
Choosing between vertical and horizontal coils will often depend on your atomiser, the position and shape of your air holes and the layout of the build deck. Learning when to use which is just a matter of experimenting to see what works best for you.
MACRO COIL
A coil with an inner diameter larger than 2mm.
MICRO COIL
A coil with an inner diameter of less than 2mm.
Both Macro and Micro are forms of ‘contact’ coils, which basically mean they’re tightly wrapped, with each wrap touching those on either side of it. As opposed to a ‘spaced’ coil which is exactly what it sounds like; the coil wraps are spaced evenly with a slight gap between each.
LET’S GET BUILDING
So now we have a basic understanding, let’s use what we’ve learnt so far and have a go at building a single macro coil using Kanthal resistance wire:
You’ll need the following tools:
- A length of Kanthal resistance wire
- Atomiser of your choice
- A regulated mod
- A Coil Jig (alternatively a screwdriver or drill bit will work in a pinch)
- Needle nose pliers
- Wire cutters
- Ohm’s reader (if you don’t have a mod that can detect resistances)
- Small screwdriver (these are usually included as part of your atomiser kit)
BEFORE WE BEGIN
It’s important to remember that the final resistance of your coil is determined by a number of different variables. Wire gauge, coil type, the coil diameter and tail length all need to be taken into consideration. When I first started coil building, I knew roughly what resistance I wanted to end up at but the rest was trial and error.
For this guide, we’re building a 1.4 ohm single coil using Kanthal AWG 30. Using the calculator, we know we need the inner coil diameter to be 2mm and we’ll need 6 full wraps to hit our desired resistance.
FIRST OF ALL, YOU’LL NEED TO CUT A PIECE OF THE KANTHAL RESISTANCE WIRE USING THE WIRE CUTTERS
Ideally, you want a length of approximately 3 inches but maybe for your first try err on the side of caution and cut a little extra. Now some people recommend oxidising the resistance wire, which essentially means heating it slowly and then letting it cool. This improves the stability of the wire and makes it easier to work it into shape. Personally, I find Kanthal easy to manipulate anyway but this is down to personal preference.
NEXT YOU NEED TO ACTUALLY WRAP YOUR COIL
I highly recommend investing in a Coil Jig for this part as it’s far easier than using a screwdriver or drill bit. What I do is hold the Coil Jig in my left hand and slide one end of the Kanthal under my thumb, forming a ‘+’ with the Coil Jig and the wire. Press down firmly with your thumb to prevent the Kanthal from sliding and line it up with the 2mm section on your Coil Jig. Now slowly start wrapping your wire around it, making sure to keep the Kanthal as tight as possible during the wrapping to prevent any slack. Also make sure none of the wraps are overlapping, but sitting as snug as possible side by side. When you’ve got 6 full wraps, using your pliers give each lead a firm pull to further tighten the coil and even things up.
IT’S NOW TIME TO INSTALL YOUR COIL ON THE BUILD DECK OF YOUR ATOMISER
Leave your new coil on the jig and set it down for a moment. You’ll need to loosen the post screws on your build deck until you can comfortably fit the tail leads of your coil through. Go ahead and do this now; one lead through the positive and the other through the negative. Keep your coil on the Coil Jig while you do this as you don’t want it to lose its shape.
Once you have both leads through their posts, take your screwdriver and tighten the screws to keep the leads in place. A word of warning though, don’t tighten them too much or you risk snapping your leads. You need to make sure your coil is in the centre of the posts but clear of the build deck to prevent a short. Use your Coil Jig (which should still be through the centre of your coil) to push and pull the coil until it’s positioned exactly how you want it. When you’re satisfied with the position and the coil is as even as possible, remove the Coil Jig and give yourself a pat on the back.
NOW WE’VE BUILT THE COIL, WE NEED TO TEST THE RESISTANCE
Screw your build deck into your ohms tester (or a mod that can detect resistances) and turn it on. If we’ve done everything correctly, your coil should be reading 1.4 ohms.
(Quick tip: If your ohms are fluctuating, make sure your post screws are tight and the coil is not touching the build deck as this can affect the reading)
WE’RE NEARLY DONE!
If everything is reading as it should be, you now want to attach your build deck to your mod and fire that baby up! Hit the fire button until your coil is glowing red and then release. Before it has a chance to cool down, grab your needle nose pliers and gently squeeze the two ends of your coil together. Rinse and repeat until your coil is glowing evenly starting from the centre and moving towards the outer wraps. This will ensure your coil is firing properly and will eliminate any hot spots.
Congratulations, you’ve built your very first coil! It’s as simple as that! However, you’re not done just yet… Before you can use your new coil you need to wick it. We don’t have time to cover that full topic here but the best material to use for wicking and the various methods used is the subject of another Vaping Hardware guide which can be located here.
THAT WASN’T SO HARD… WHAT’S NEXT?
Just a FYI titanium wire is temp control only. watts heats it to high just as ni200 and is dangerous to health.
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